Thesis Complete!

Over the past few months, I have been working on my thesis as part of my masters in Climate Change, Agriculture and Food Security. This has been both challenging and beneficial for me. My research was titled ‘Fast Fashion, Climate, Sustainability’. After putting a lot of time and effort into the completion of the thesis, the submission last week was very satisfactory.

I enjoyed completing the thesis and researching the topics involved. I had a keen interest in the fashion industry and its effects on the environment which led me to the topic for the thesis. The fashion industry is a significant contributor to unsustainable development, particularly in relation to resource consumption, climate change, pollution and social inequity. In the past few decades, the concept of “fast fashion” has become prominent and successful within the fashion industry. This fast fashion cycle has been intensified and the fast fashion supply chain impacts significantly on climate.

Cover page of thesis

The review found that fast fashion is having a significant impact on climate and more sustainable approaches are needed. Future work should address microplastic pollution, wastewater treatment, new more sustainable fibres, the use phase of the garment such as washing, drying and duration of life, and disposal methods.

Throughout writing the thesis I received assistance and invaluable support. I would like to thank my supervisors, Prof Charles Spillane and Dr Peter McKeown. They provided me with guidance and feedback throughout the completion of the thesis and I am extremely grateful for this.

Global Landscapes Forum- My Views

I attended a number of sessions on the Global Landscapes Forum. The session I found most interesting/important in comparison to the other sessions I attended was 14.30 on Thursday ‘ Thought leaders in Biodiversity: Building hope for the future’. I chose this session because it covered many different aspects, bringing together lots of knowledge and perspectives from many different speakers from all over the world. The Thought leaders in biodiversity webinar began with an introduction to climate issues by Bard Vegar Solhjell, the director-general of the Norweigan Agency for Development Cooperation, Norad. He discussed how our contact with nature has changed and getting closer to wildlife which is has a connection to the current pandemic. Fossil fuel extraction and burning followed by land use are the main drivers of climate change, in order to preserve biodiversity a shift in this area is needed.

The second speaker was Carole Dieschbourg, Minister for the Environment, climate and sustainable Development of Luxembourg, she discussed biodiversity and building back better. The pandemic shows how closely human wellbeing and the environment are and how vulnerable economies and societies are to change. This highlights the need for change in the way we live, consume and produce food. She also spoke on the need for world leaders to work together in ensuring a more sustainable future. There is a need to redirect investment of public and private and develop and new ways of assessing progress as GDP is not suitable for climate change, to ensure climate change related issues and biodiversity loss are not being forgotten. Harmful subsidies such as fossil fuels and other pollutants need to be regulated and used correctly as the excessive use is causing a warming effect on the planet leading to many problems such as natural disasters and problems for agriculture and food security. A reduction in this area will also protect some endangered species as global warming is the leading cause of habitat loss.

The third speaker Robert Nasi discussed Biodiversity in action and how loss poses threats for humans, causing problems with medicines and food crops. There have been five mass extinctions, with one triggered by an asteroid and the rest by climate change, volcanos also contribute. The sixth mass extinction is currently happening and this shows how important stable climatic conditions are for biodiversity. The global landscape forum aims to improve biodiversity.

Stefan Schmitz, Executive director of crops trust talked about preserving plant biodiversity especially with many species facing extinction, adding to what Robert Nasi mentioned on mass extinctions, around 40% of plant species are facing extinction. Gene banks are important to preserve the genetic material of crop species that are in danger of extinction. He also discussed the importance of conservation, knowledge, investment, technology and the managing/exchanging of information. Over half of global GDP depends on high functioning biodiversity, more than a fifth of countries worldwide are at risk of ecosystem collapse as biodiversity declines therefore it is important to build communities of practice and raise awareness in relation to conservation.

Galina Angarova, executive director of Cultural survival is a member of the indigenous people of Siberia. Galina discussed the importance of indigenous people in biodiversity protection and land sustainability. Biocultural diversity and the coevolution of the landscape and indigenous people, make ingenious people experts of their own environment. Indigenous people. Represent only 6.2% of the population around the world, they live on around 25% of the land, with the environments in a reciprocal way that upholds both the spiritual and ecological integrity of the land protecting and sustaining the biological diversity.

Gilbert F. Houngbo president of IFAD, covered biodiversity through rural factors. He discussed how small-scale farmers are at an increased risk due to climate change and biodiversity loss and the need for investment in this area is required to achieve the sustainable development goals. Both challenges and opportunities post pandemic were looked at including biodiversity for building back better to end hunger, improve food systems and preserve earth’s resources. Biodiversity is important for rural development as people depend on natural resources such as clean water and fertile soil for their livelihoods.

Ma Jun, Director of Institute for Public and Environmental Affairs China was the final speaker. He addressed biodiversity loss with emphasis on freshwater Yangtze river and Chinas reforestation project and investment increase in these areas. The ten year fishing ban on the Yangtze River and the need to broaden the participation from stakeholders in combating biodiversity loss. He discussed the release of a new project, Biodiversity map to help the general public to get involved and learn more about climate change and biodiversity. Green supply chains and green finance have helped improve issues like air quality.

A circular economy, what it jeans…

Circular economy

A circular economy approach can be beneficial in transitioning away from the take, make, dispose model that is often common in various industries globally. The circular economy action agenda highlighted the need for a shift away from the linear economic system. Since 1970 resource use has tripled and more increases are expected if there is not a transition away from business as usual. Key areas of a circular economy are the prevention of waste and pollution and an emphasis is placed on keeping products and materials in use. The Circular Economy Action Agenda draws attention to the requirement for governments, businesses, researchers, consumers and civil society to work together in solving the waste problem. 

Photo: Bitc.ie

Circular fashion 

The fashion industry is valued at over one trillions euro and is an integral part of daily life. However, the use of lots of chemicals and resources, as well as the working conditions in the industry has highlighted problems with fashion. It is also the case that garments in good condition are discarded leading to significant waste problems. A circular economy approach is necessary for this industry, a shift to renewable materials, increased longevity, and recycling of garments reduces the pressure on natural resources and waste facilities. Each year clothing valued at over €389 billion is wasted. 

Photo: Getty Images

Circular jeans

Jeans are a type of pants made from denim or dungaree cloth. They first came on the scene in 1873, however they were invested as working clothes but have since evolved into a popular fashion item. Jeans are one of the fashion industry’s biggest offenders when it comes to the environment; it takes almost one thousand gallons of water to produce one pair of jeans. In order for jeans to become more sustainable, a circular economy approach is required. This addresses issues along the supply chain. Recyclability can be improved by using safer materials that can be disassembled instead of more complex blends of different fibres. A focus on renewable natural fibres is required to improve the sustainability. There are a number of initiatives in place by different brands and organisations aiming to make jeans more sustainable and brands are trying to move away from the unsustainable history of denim. AG jeans are currently working on moving towards reducing water consumption during manufacturing and design stage. Recycling over 99% of the water as well as replacing stone washing and sanding with laser techniques to finish the jeans has lead to a major reduction in water use. Warp + Weft another denim brand uses half the amount of dye and energy as traditional processes by adapting an ultra absorbent tencel and up cycled plastic and old denim (Ilyashov, 2019). MUD jeans has pioneered a circular economy model for jeans by introducing a leasing system with 3 options after a year of use, 1) swap for another pair and continue leasing, 2) keep the jeans and continue use and 3) end the relationship , return he jeans and get a voucher. These jeans are made from 40% recycled denim and 60% organic cotton. Once returned, items are sold as vintage pieces after cleaning and repair. These jeans also have a naturally vintage look. Products that are un-repairable are recycled (Ellen MacCarthur Foundation)

By adapting these greener alternatives globally, denim can move towards a more sustainable, circular future. 

References

Platform for Accelerating the Circular Economy. Available online at: https://pacecircular.org

Ellen MacCarthur Foundation. Fashion and the circular economy. Available online at: https://archive.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/explore/fashion-and-the-circular-economy

Ilyashov, A. (2019) Denim Is Destroying the Planet. Available Online at:https://www.instyle.com/fashion/eco-friendly-denim-jeans-brands

The dark side of labour in the fashion industry

Garment assembly employs 40 million people globally. The majority of this labour is carried out in low and middle-income countries which supply a staggering 99% of the world’s clothing. Long working hours, the lack of a living wage, exposure to chemicals and hazardous substances, as well as poor health and safety standards, make many of these textile factories bad workplaces.  Improving standards and rights is a priority for the international labour organisation.

The wages

The wages in the industry are often very low and employees are often left without a contract, expected to work excessive hours with no extra pay for overtime hours. The poor pay that these workers receive can be highlighted by the example of the kit of the English football team at the 2018 world cup, which was the most expensive England kit ever. It was sold to fans for as much as €180 while the workers that made the jerseys were working for less than €2 a day. (Clean Clothes Campaign). The impact of covid 19 on this issue is significant. An investigation into wage theft uncovered eight factories that supply household fashion brands with clothing that have failed to pay 9843 workers their wages and legally owed benefits due to the current pandemic (BHRRC). 

Chemicals

Workers exposed to toxic chemicals and other hazardous materials has serious effects. Research from the national institutes of health found that exposure to chemicals and heavy metals can cause skin, respiratory, and gastrointestinal issues. A contributing factor can also be a lack of safety procedures and safety equipment. It is essential that restrictions are placed on types of chemicals that are dangerous to human health and that they are replaced with safer alternatives within the industry (Weinstein,2019).

Health and Safety 

The catastrophes of the Ali Enterprises in Pakistan, Tazreen Fashions in Bangladesh and the Rana Plaza also in Bangladesh highlight the need for drastic changes to prevent unnecessary deaths and destruction. The workers in garment factories are threatened with unsafe buildings, high temperature, poor ventilation and violence usually in relation to gender. In 2013, the death of 1134 workers at the Rana Plaza led to the establishment of the legally binding accord on fire and building safety in Bangladesh. This helped protect the workers by providing much safer conditions and unions.  

References

Weinstein, (2019) Unravelling the Fashion Industry. Green America

Available online: https://www.greenamerica.org/magazine/unraveling-fashion-industry

Clean Clothes Campaign, Unsafe workplaces. Available online: https://cleanclothes.org/unsafe-workplaces

Garment Worker Wage Theft Widespread in Wake of Pandemic

https://www.businessoffashion.com/news/global-markets/garment-workers-remain-unpaid-even-as-fashion-giants-return-to-profit

BBHRC Business and Human Rights Resource Centre

https://www.business-humanrights.org/en/

The Bug Mooovement

In preparation for the United Nations Food Systems Summit 2021, various topics and actions have been flagged as essential to achieving Sustainable Development Goals by 2030. The Food Systems Summit dialogues aim to bring together stakeholders from different socioeconomic backgrounds and regions worldwide to collaborate, educate and take action towards a more sustainable future for all. The five Action Tracks are intertwined and designed to address trade-offs with other tracks and identify solutions. These Action Tracks will bring together knowledge from key players all over the world to optimise food systems with the aim of developing sustainable, climate smart solutions. 

The five Action Tracks listed below interconnect to meet the Sustainable Development Goals.

 1. Ensure access to safe and nutritious food for all

 2. Shift to sustainable consumption patterns

 3. Boost nature-positive production

 4. Advance equitable livelihoods

 5. Build resilience to vulnerabilities, shocks and stress

Transition to alternative protein sources

According to the food systems summit AT2 public forum, some of the main actors for AT2 are government/policymakers; therefore, this an excellent place to start. Transitioning to different consumption patterns is essential to reducing/preventing deforestation, protecting biodiversity and maintaining a stable climate for generations to come. Policies and initiatives need to be created to push the transition from meat to alternative, more sustainable protein sources.

One innovation that could push the transition to more sustainable consumption patterns is a change in policy, funding, and educational opportunities—encouraging farmers to consider shifting from livestock intensive farming to the incorporation of alternative forms of protein cultivation such as insect farms. 

A significant part of this innovation is the transition to alternative protein sources such as insects reducing the heavy reliance on livestock farming. 

Challenges for Farmers

The transition from livestock to alternative protein sources will come with its’s challenges, that both farmers and consumers are likely to experience. Overcoming these challenges is one of the main factors for Governments and Policymakers when developing this innovation. The farmers themselves may pose the most significant challenge with potential concerns arising from lack of knowledge on mealworm production, lack of funding to facilitate the transition, and farmers who may be reluctant to change traditional farming practices. When it comes to farmers changing methods, it can often be a tricky process. Traditional methods are often favoured as they have been proven for generations, feeding people in all parts of the world with sizable populations. Farmers use modern agricultural practices in all regions, but a staggering 2 billion people still use traditional methods worldwide (Singh and Singh, 2017). 

The majority of farmers who continue traditional practices tend to be smallholder farmers. This may be linked to the likelihood of these small farmers having little education on more advanced techniques. This tends to be the case in many areas with smallholder farmers. For example, in Madagascar, research showed that smallholder farmer education levels were low, with 27% of the farmers lacking any formal education and an additional 48% having completed primary school’ (Harvey et al., 2014) 

This leads to the next challenge the transition faces, education. To encourage a shift to more sustainable consumption methods, policymakers must address and provide educational opportunities and support to farmers. 

The third challenge that the farmers themselves may pose is the cost of the transition. It is essential for Policy Makers to protect livelihoods. There will likely be a decline in the demand for protein cultivated using traditional cattle and pig farming methods. The supply of funds to allow farmers to prepare for the transition is significant as, without these, farmers may be reluctant to change, leading to issues with the transition. Governments will need to do everything possible to encourage the shift to alternative protein sources. 

Challenges for consumers

The consumers pose some different challenges. The idea of education on the need for and benefits of more sustainable consumption patterns is one challenge that overlaps between farmers and consumers. For consumers to acknowledge the need to change, people worldwide need to be educated on why such a transition is necessary. 

In order to the transition, an emphasis will need to be placed on ensuring the alternative protein sources are more cost-effective and easily accessible. The introduction of incentives to change by creating a price difference between meat and more sustainable protein sources, an example of this would be taxation of high saturated fat red meat, similar to the sugar tax already in place.

Finally, the ‘yuck’ factor may be the most significant challenge to overcome for the consumer. The idea of consuming insects instead of meat will seem ridiculous to many people, especially those unfamiliar with the need for more sustainable food consumption. It is essential to challenge social norms and normalise insects in the human diet. 

Benefits of the Transition

The benefits of this transition will be global; more sustainable food consumption will help all regions for generations to come. Benefits to health, livelihoods, economies, biodiversity, land use and deforestation are only a number on the endless list.

In recent years human health in most regions has been affected by diet-related health complications such as cardiovascular disease, cancer, type 2 diabetes and obesity. At the same time, other communities face the burden of undernutrition.  The shift to sustainable consumption patterns can 

The transition can protect livelihoods in the future. For generations, people have relied on stable conditions and traditional methods of agriculture. However, the new challenges posed by climate change and warming temperatures, coupled with the shifting consumer demands, new techniques and procedures are required to protect the livelihoods of those dependent on agriculture to survive.

According to the UN environment program, one-third of global food production relies on animal and insect pollination. Annually this service is valued at around 200 billion dollars, and this will not be possible in the future without a shift in sustainable consumption patterns. 

The benefits to biodiversity, land use and deforestation are apparent. A scale back on livestock farming has benefits, including reduced methane emissions, the protection of wildlife ecosystems due to a reduction in the need for deforestation. A business as usual scenario would see an increase in the demand for grazing land for animals and land for fodder production, fuelling the growing issue with land use and deforestation. This innovation will promote consumer demand for sustainably produced food, improving human nutrition and strengthening local value chains. This innovation also draws attention to the fact that a transition towards more nutritious food that requires fewer resources to produce, which is essential for the projected population growth by 2050. 

References

Singh, R., Singh, G.S. Traditional agriculture: a climate-smart approach for sustainable food production. Energ. Ecol. Environ. 2, 296–316 (2017). https://doi.org/10.1007/s40974-017-0074-7

Harvey, C. A., Rakotobe, Z. L., Rao, N. S., Dave, R., Razafimahatratra, H., Rabarijohn, R. H., Rajaofara, H., & Mackinnon, J. L. (2014). Extreme vulnerability of smallholder farmers to agricultural risks and climate change in Madagascar. Philosophical transactions of the Royal Society of London. Series B, Biological sciences, 369(1639), 20130089. https://doi.org/10.1098/rstb.2013.0089